• The first is Rotary Cut. A log is spun on a roller and a big knife peels off the skin of the log. (Just like peeling an apple).
• The other is Flat Sliced. The log is sliced into long thin slices lengthwise. (Just like slicing a carrot from head to bottom)
   

The plies are then sandwiched together with a resin (glue) and pressed with enormous pressure. The plywood is then cut into standard 4’ x 8’ lengths. Sometimes, depending on the customer needs the sheets can be as big as 4’ by 20’ long. If the plywood has more plies, such as, Baltic Birch Plywood, it makes it very stable.

There is also many types of plywood, including:

• Cabinet grade, for making kitchen cabinets, furniture, woodworking projects, etc.
• Sheathing, used for siding on homes.
   
• Marine plywood has a waterproof resin so it can be used for boats and exterior uses.
   

Plywood is graded by how many imperfections it has. If the plies were clear with no knots, dents, discolouration, it would be considered as Select, #1 or A Grade. If there were plenty of knots and holes it would be lower down on the scale and be called a Shop or Utility grade. For some people, if they’re working on a project and the appearance is not necessary, they choose a “middle of the road “ grade.

True plywood requires at least three layers of veneer stacked so that the grain alternates 90 degrees. The veneers are cross-layered and joined together by an adhesive.

The 1993 Hardwood Plywood Reference Guide, a publication of the Hardwood Plywood & Veneer Association states that, "in 1830, the piano industry became the first North American industry to use plywood. Wood & Wood Products Magazine's Centennial issue (1996) says that, "in 1890, the rotary cutting process was invented," and as a result of mechanization, plywood became increasingly affordable.
In 1929 a pamphlet published by the National Committee On Wood Utilization noted, "Plywood is a modern term describing an old product which did not receive serious technical and economic consideration until its adaptability to airplane and marine consideration was developed during exhaustive tests at the Forest Products Laboratory."

The word "plywood" which was created in America, received official sanction in dictionaries printed a few years later. That's plywood... veneers on the other hand, dated back to the early Egyptians in the times of the Pharaohs... about 4,000 years ago.

Plywood weights will vary according to species and even country of origin. A "ball Park" number for North American made softwood plywood would be 23 lbs for a 4 x 8 x 1/4" sheet.

What is the difference between Luan Plywood and regular good-one-side plywood?  (Back to Top of Page)
Good one side is a recognized grade for Canadian made Fir plywood. This panel is obviously made from Fir veneer and bonded on exterior grade resins. The face is well sanded, repairs and natural defects (knots, splits, etc) are limited. For further info try the Canadian Plywood Association, www.canply.org/.
Laun is a term to reference a group of wood species. Laun plywood's come in a variety of grades, some of which are similar to Good one side. Launs are usually bonded with interior grad resins and are not equal to Fir plywood in structural strength.

What type of wood and sizes do you offer for scroll saw hobbyists?  (Back to Top of Page)
The ideal wood for scroll saw work is Baltic Birch. This special plywood is constructed with more veneers per unit of thickness than other types of plywood. Manufactured in Europe, this panel is ideal for routering, scroll sawing or for applications requiring high stability. Available in 5' x 5' sheets and thickness 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 3/4”. Prices are from $12.00(1/8) - $60.00 (3/4") per sheet.

Plywood Grading  (Back to Top of Page)
SHEATHING: Generally broken into 4 grades.
SELECT: Should be solid face, can allow some veneer splits, no wider than 1/16” knots are allowed, but must be sound and tight, not more than 1-1/4” in diameter.
STANDARD: Face will be made from “C” veneer, can have knot holes in face thru 1st layer of veneer only, knots are limited to 1-1/4” in diameter.
D GRADE: All fall down from above, including some face or back veneer missing or loose.
CULL: Allows for any possible imperfections - delimitation, off square or miss sized

MEASURING LUMBER
What is the difference between a linear foot and board foot?  (Back to Top of Page)
A linear foot is a measure of length 12 inches long and a board foot is a number calculated by determining the volume of a board that is 12 inches wide and 1 inch thick. In other words, a 1" x 6" board that measures 24" long is exactly one board foot. (width" x thickness" x length' / 12)

How do I figure out a board foot?  (Back to Top of Page)
To convert linear feet to board feet: Thickness” x Width” x Length’ ÷ 12
To convert board feet to linear feet: 12 ÷ Thickness” x Width” x Board Foot

LUMBER
What are Hardwoods and Softwoods?  (Back to Top of Page)
The degree of hardness has no bearing on whether the wood is a hardwood or a softwood. Hardwood was the lumber cut from deciduous or broad-leaved trees that produce enclose seeds such as Cherry, Maple, Walnut, Oak, etc. Softwood was the lumber cut from coniferous or needle-bearing trees that produce free unopened seeds such as the cones of Fir, Cedar and Pine.

Why does bird’s eye occur in different kinds of wood?  (Back to Top of Page)
It hasn’t been proven conclusively what the actual cause is, however it is known that it only occurs in trees which undergo growth stress from competing with surrounding trees for light and nourishment.
Studies have shown that a tree which has developed bird’s eye at an earlier stage of its life will no longer develop the figuring in future growth if the trees around it are cut down. Nearby maple trees that also developed bird’s eye continued to do so if the neighbouring fauna was left undisturbed.

The dimensions of rough cut lumber determine the lumber's nominal size. This can be misleading to a novice when lumber is referred to in sizes which are not the actual dimensions. So how does it work?  (Back to Top of Page)
After surfacing, a board might be reduced by as much as 1/4" on each side but it will still be identified by the nominal width. This is the Erosion a nominal 2" x 4" board, a "two-by-four", is actually only one and one half by three and one half inches in size. Here are the nominal and actual sizes for most common lumber: A nominal 1" x 2" is actually 3/4" x 1-1/2. a nominal 1" x 6" is actually 3/4" x 5-1/2", a nominal 2" x 4" is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2". Most construction lumber is supplied in lengths of eight, ten, and twelve feet.

Is it better to paint a big project piece by piece or as a whole assembled together?  (Back to Top of Page)
Piece by piece is always the best way to get full coverage and to avoid painting around hardware, etc.

I've been building furniture, mostly out of pine, and I've been very disappointed to find that after a project is finished the joints become loose and some of the pieces no longer fit properly. I suspect that it has something to do with humidity. What do I do?  (Back to Top of Page)
Wood is an organic substance and expands and contracts with changes in humidity... always has... always will! The secret is to work the wood only after it has adjusted to local conditions. Every workshop should be equipped with a storage area where wood can be air dried. Wood should be purchased well in advance and it's moisture content should be in a 7 to 12% range. You can usually be assured that the wood is not to wet if it is sold as "Kiln dried", however even then it is a good idea to let it air dry in your shop for a while. Following these procedures should minimize shrinkage and splitting.

When did chestnut trees disappear?  (Back to Top of Page)
Chestnut blight has devastated North American stocks over the past 20 years. Wood from infected trees is of no commercial value. In an effort to contain the spread of the disease there are severe restrictions on the cutting and transportation of the timber.

FLOORS  (Back to Top of Page)
The hardwood floors were previously done with a high gloss finish. It is starting to peel in sections, how do I fix it?  (Back to Top of Page)
You should sand it all and refinish it.

How can you make Douglas Fir floors look good again?  (Back to Top of Page)
They can be sanded and varnished to look their best again.

Can you install a layer of T&G plywood over a 3/4” plywood subfloor? Should the T&G run in the opposite direction and what is the best way to nail the T&G connection point?  (Back to Top of Page)
You can install T&G over 3/4” plywood subfloor. It should run across the subfloor and it is best to use flooring screws. The usual application schedule is 6” spacing around the perimeter and 12” on the field.
 

How do I fix a squeaky hardwood floor?  (Back to Top of Page)
The squeak is probably in the subfloor over a floor joist. Best way is to run screws into the subfloor through the joint nearest the squeak. If this is awkward, first screw a 2 x 2 to the side of the joint tight to the subfloor, then screw up through the 2 x 2 into the subfloor.

I would like to know who manufactures the "glueless" Viva-clic laminate flooring. Also can you give me the results of the Taber testing on it? (Back to Top of Page)
It is made in Germany by Holz Dammers Moers. Taber testing alone is no longer considered to be a reliable measure of abrasion resistance as results can be easily manipulated. It should be considered only when included in a battery of other tests conducted by an independent testing facility. Viva has been given a Class 23 (residential) and class 31(commercial) rating in such tests.

Can you use Oak plywood as a "Hardwood" flooring?    (Back to Top of Page)
Don't even think about it. The veneer is only 1/48" max thick and can't tolerate abrasion unless given several coats of special floor finish. The main reason not to, however, is that the core veneer of the cabinet plywood are allowed voids, which could cause a furniture leg or a shoe heel to pop through, ruining the floor and perhaps cause an injury. Use products that are intended for flooring.

MOULDINGS
How do I get the inside corner cut to match up when installing the crown moulding?  (Back to Top of Page)
One piece is butted into the corner and the other is coped to fit around the first. The piece to be coped is cut at a 45-degree angle to reveal the profile. A coping saw is then used, angled inwards slightly, to cut along the profile revealed so that the cut takes the shape of the butted moulding. Once it has been trimmed to fit, the coped piece is installed.

How do I join lengths of mouldings?  (Back to Top of Page)
When you have to join two pieces of moulding to form one long continuous piece, use an overlapping 45° mitre cut. This is called a “scarf joint”. See illustration below.

At what height is chair rail moulding normally installed?  (Back to Top of Page)
Chair rail moulding is normally installed at 42" from the floor.
 

DOORS
How do I stop a rattling door?  (Back to Top of Page)
If the door rattles less than 1/8”, you may be able to fix the problem simply by adjusting the tab on the bearing side of the strike plate. These metal tabs are made to take a slot screwdriver, and can be bent in and out, a little at a time until the rattling is gone.
Relocating the strike plate or removing the door stop and renailing it againest the closed and latched door can fix the sever rattle.

A new door into your existing jamb  (Back to Top of Page)
Follow these steps to learn how to install new doors (that are already mortised or machined) to match your old doorjamb.

Binding
Just because your door has been machined to match your door does not mean it will fit perfect, particularly if the old door was wood. A wood door may have warped or twisted over the years to fit the frame.  (Back to Top of Page)
- If your door binds against the jamb after your hinges are tight and well seated, you’ll have to identify the areas of interference and plane them with a sharp hand plane. Don’t use a hand rasp, it is almost useless on wood.
- With the door shut, use a thin piece of cardboard and slide all around the perimeter of the door. Mark interfering areas lightly with a pencil. Plane lightly the excess.

DOOR HARDWARE
Hinges  (Back to Top of Page)
- You should replace your old hinges because worn or loosely mounted hinges will allow the door to sag and bind, no matter how well it fits the opening.
- You may need to adjust the hinges depending on how sqaure the frame is. Your door will be machined to match your old door. If the jamb is out of square, shimming adjustments may be required (a) behind the hinges or (b) behind the jamb may require prior squaring up. Hinge box cardboard works well behind the hinges if the door is not sitting square. If the jamb needs shimming, you may have to remove the casing to shim up the jamb to make it square.
 

If the door binds, you can also achieve adjustment by mortising the hinge onto the door slightly deeper.

If your hinges seem like they do not line up, one of the following solutions may be of help to you:  (Back to Top of Page)
- Loosen the hinge that will not go on and then put it into place and tighten the hinge back up.
- Using a hammer, lightly tap the hinge that is higher than its partner to line them up. The pins should then slip into place
 

Once you have your door on its hinges and door will not close, check one of the following:  (Back to Top of Page)
- The door is rubbing against the doorstop and you may have to mortise the hinge further into the door.
- If the door is free near the bottom but binds near the top on the latch side, the bottom hinge may be set in too deep. Remove the bottom hinge and put a piece of cardboard inside and reset the screws. This problem may be reversed also.
- Check all screws to make sure they are tight.

Door Latches  (Back to Top of Page)
If there is no binding and the hinges are tight and well seated, but the door still refuses to behave... check out the latch. Most door closures are spring loaded retractable latches. They connect to the door handle, that interlocks with the opening in the strike plate on the door jamb. These two parts must line up exactly when the door is closed.

OTHER
The label has left sticky stuff on my doors that I just purchased, how do I get it off without scratching or harming the metal door?   (Back to Top of Page)
Contact cement solvent or lacquer thinner can clean off sticky remnants. Be careful to have plenty air circulation. The fumes can be toxic if breathed in and flammable.

What material would you suggest for the top of a shop work bench? Thickness? (Back to Top of Page)
The inexpensive solution is the thickest MDF available. Traditionally,workbenches in woodworking shops are laminated beechwood.

I'm looking for a good plywood to make a kid's sand box, something that is good for outside. I will be putting stain on it. I'm looking for 3/4" as it will be up off the ground.  (Back to Top of Page)
All North American made construction plywood is exterior rated. Use a sanded plywood instead of sheathing so the kid's don't catch themselves on a rough surface. A grade such as ACX (American)or G1S (Canadian) is ideal. Painting will provide far better protection than staining;it is especially important to seal the edges to reduce water penetration.

Can you help? I have an idea to line the bathroom walls with ply instead of plaster etc. Can you advise grade and possible finish as it will need to look good and be waterproof?  (Back to Top of Page)
A bathroom with a shower presents similar moisture problems to that of a boat, so marine grade is most appropriate. Sealing the edges is critical as this is the most vulnerable point of entry for water vapour. On a boat, fiberglass is often used, but that would be overkill on plywood except in the shower. A urethane or varnish or a good quality oil-based paint should work.

We have recently returned to Canada and are seeking some advice on how to restore our teak patio furniture. While in the US, heavy rains created a mould problem in our patio furniture.   (Back to Top of Page)
Most top-quality exterior wood finishes contain a fungicide to delay the onset of mold. Oil finishes for interior use do not contain this fungicide. Marine teak oil will work and allows the natural feel of the wood to be maintained, however, it must be renewed on an ongoing basis to fully protect the wood. Avoid pigmented stains/oils as the excess pigments will rub off onto your clothes. Marine grade varnish (formulated to adhere to the naturally oily surface of teak) will provide better protection from mold than an oil finish as the varnish reduces the amount of air that reaches the surface of the wood (and oxygen helps the mold to grow). The downside to varnish is that you won't feel the wood surface directly and when varnish eventually needs to be recoated one must first strip the old varnish. Behr makes a good marine (a.k.a. 'spar') varnish.

Can a new piece of laminate be put on top of a Formica® countertop?  (Back to Top of Page)
If the old piece is well bonded to the countertop substrate. You must first sand the old laminate so that contact cement will bond.

How do I repair a split in wood furniture (desk)?  (Back to Top of Page)
You can repair the split by using Epoxy Adhesive and clamping it together. The repair will be stronger than the original wood.

Looking for plans and materials to build bunk beds?  (Back to Top of Page)
The best bet is to check out the Woodsmith magazine. Woodsmith is chalked full of plans, tips and tricks. They have excellent plans with great diagrams and material lists. Look for Woodsmith #38. It has plans for bunk beds. Also, ask the stores about the Woodsmith Index. It has all the plans and projects list from A - Z.

How to preserve mahogany furniture for storage  (Back to Top of Page)
First a sheet to keep dust off. Wax covering the open ends helps, but it won't protect the wood from changes in humidity, which is the real threat. If you can keep a Humidifier nearby it would help.

How to restore our teak patio furniture?  (Back to Top of Page)
Most top-quality exterior wood finishes contain a fungicide to delay the onset of mold .Oil finishes for interior use do not contain this fungicide. Marine teak oil will work and allows the natural feel of the wood to be maintained,however,it must be renewed on an ongoing basis to fully protect the wood. Avoid pigmented stains/oils as the excess pigments will rub off onto your clothes.
Marine grade varnish (formulated to adhere to the naturally oily surface of teak) will provide better protection from mold than an oil finish as the varnish reduces the amount of air that reaches the surface of the wood (and oxygen helps the mold to grow).The downside to varnish is that you won't feel the wood surface directly and when varnish eventually needs to be recoated one must first strip the old varnish.

When redecorating a room, should the baseboards be left on or off?   (Back to Top of Page)
When a room is to be redecorated extensively, including new wallpaper and new carpets, it is best to take all the baseboards off. This will allow you to run the wallpaper down the wall so that the baseboard can cover the edge. It will also allow you to strip all the old paint or other finish off the baseboards with a liquid stripper much more easily than left in place. You can also refinish them much more easily. Be sure to label the pieces of baseboard on the backside as you take them off and label the wall below the level of the wallpaper with a Corresponding code. An added advantage of doing it this way is the carpet installers will invariably do some damage to your newly refinished baseboards with their tools if they have to lay new carpet with the baseboards in place.

Windsor Plywood's How-To Pages
 

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Doors  (Back to Tips Navigation)

Slab Doors Door sold on it’s own. No prehanging, predrilling for door knob or mortising for hinges will have been done. Knock Down - Prehung A door package containing all the unassembled components to hang a door including the frame, pre-cut header, stop and hinges. All components predrilled for easy installation into the rough door opening. May or may not include door jamb. Prehung Door The door is completely assembled in it’s frame ready to be installed into the rough door opening. May or may not include door jamb.

Staining Fiberglass Doors	Painting Steel and Fiberglass Doors	Machine to Match Door Installation	Windsor Pine Doors

Flooring (Back to Tips Navigation)

Laminate Flooring The core material of the flooring is typically made of High Density Fiberboard (HDF). The top layer is a photographic layer that should appear identical to the product it replicates, be it wood, vinyl, tile, etc. The flooring can vary in thickness, generally between 7mm - 12mm thick. The majority of laminate floors feature a floating installation with a tongue and groove glueless locking system. This type of flooring is typically the least expensive. Engineered Hardwood Flooring A flooring product made up of a core of hardwood, plywood or HDF and a top layer of hardwood veneer that is glued on the top surface of the core. Like laminates, the installation method is floating, without glue or nailing down. They are available in almost any hardwood species. The flooring has the natural characteristics of a real wood floor as opposed to a photographic layer. Solid Hardwood Flooring The flooring is the solid natural wood species throughout the entire piece of flooring, typically with a tongue and groove “nail down” installation. Good sanding and refinishing capabilities. The flooring is typically more expensive and has some limitations as to where it can be installed due to moisture issues.
Laminate Flooring	Laminate Flooring Tips	Natur Cork	Solid Flooring Grades	Flooring Installation	Quiet Underlayment	Important: Radiant Heat

Exterior (Back to Tips Navigation)

Decking: NatureWood	Deck and Fence Staining Tips	Rhino Deck Original Installation	Rhino Deck Vision Installation	Windsor Plywood Deck Planner	Windsor Fencing Planner

Wood/Plywood  (Back to Tips Navigation)

Lumber How is lumber is measured Learn how to convert lineal feet to board feet. Board classification Classifications explained and nominal dimensions Plywood There is many types of plywood: Cabinet grade - for making kitchen cabinets, furniture & woodworking project. Sheathing - used to underlie siding or roofing. Marine - plywood which has a waterproof resin so it can be used for boats and exterior uses. How plywood is made Hardwood plywood panel construction Hardwood plywood species Cabinet Plywood Face Veneer grading Canadian & American Plywood grades explained Baltic Birch Plywood Plywood sizing Plywood terminology

Decorative  (Back to Tips Navigation)
       

Mouldings and how to use them Styles and uses of mouldings for your home.
Windsor Moulding Planner	Windsor Spindles & Stair Parts

Hardware  (Back to Tips Navigation)

Blumotion® Hinge and Drawer Slide System Blumotion is a soft close system designed for drawer slides and cabinet door hinges that adjusts the resistance to keep door and drawers from slamming shut.

Miscellaneous  (Back to Tips Navigation)

Oil or Latex Paint Learn the advantages and disadvantages of both paints Free Plans